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Few things complete a historical outfit as well as the right hat or bonnet! |
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Wimple made from purple taffeta and jacquard ribbon with a gold organza veil. It was made to wear with a ladie's houppeland, shown here.
Wimple Front
Wimple Back
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In the 18th Century linen or cotton caps, often with ruffles, were worn both indoors and outdoors. They were often worn under other types of hats and bonnets, as shown below.
Front detail of cap with ruffles.
Side detail of cap.
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Straw hat trimmed with velvet ribbon and straw flowers. This style of hat is made from a round straw hat, molded and blocked to achive the correct shape. It is worn with the 1750's Yellow Stripe Dress.
Front detail of straw hat.
Side view, showing trim..
Side view.
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This is the same type of hat portrayed in the commonly reproduced painting of "Pinkie" painted in 1794 by Thomas Lawrence (shown on right). It coordinates with the 1790's Blue Linen Dress.
Side Detail of Hat
Front Detail of Hat
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Throughout the 18th and early 19th century, caps made from fine linen, cotton, or net were worn indoors and under bonnets and hats. One of the purposes of this garment was to keep the hair clean, the other to prevent oils from the hair from staining the hat or bonnet. People didn't wash their hair as often during these periods in history, and they also used a lot of oil based hair dressing solutions. This cap is made from 100% cotton net, and is trimmed with picot edged satin ribbon.
Early 19th Century Net Cap - Front
Early 19th Century Net Cap - Back
Early 19th Century Cap - Side
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The rage for turbans began during the Empire period and continued through the 1830's. This tuban was designed to be worn with the 1830's printed cotton handsewn dress. The two types of fabric are sewn to a buckram base.
First Lady Dolly Madison wearing a turban by J.F.E. (John Frances Eugene) Prud'homme (1800-1892). Special Collections Department, University of Virginia Library.
Front view of turban.
Side back view of turban.
Side view of turban.
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The shape of the poke bonnet is commonly associated with Charles Dickens era clothing. These bonnets have a wide open brim. This bonnet is made from straw braid sewn together in rows. The edges are finished with gimp and it is trimmed with olive antique silk ribbon. The ties are grosgrain ribbon. It was also made to go with the 1830's Handsewn Dress.
1830's Poke Bonnet - Side view showing silk ribbon trim.
1830's Poke Bonnet - Side view.
1830's Poke Bonnet - Front view.
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At the end of the 1830's the shape of the fashionable bonnet changed from the large brimmed poke bonnet to a smaller, more compact style. This bonnet is made from burgundy irridescent taffeta and is trimmed with self fabric and an antique millinery ornament made from straw. It was made to coordinate with the 1840 Diaper Print Dress, and is shown over the cotton net cap (above).
1840 Bonnet - front view.
1840 Bonnet - Back view.
1840 Bonnet - side view.
1840 Bonnet - detail of straw ornament.
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As the decade worn on, the shape of the bonnet became elongated and tubular. This was said to be modest, as it prevented those flirtatious sidelong glances! This bonnet is made from pink silk and is trimmed with antique lace. It was designed to compliment the 1840's black wool dress with pink embroidery.
Fashion plate showing coat, muff and bonnets from La Mode 1848.
1840's Pink Silk Bonnet - side view illustrating the shape.
1840's Pink Silk Bonnet - front view.
1840's Pink Silk Bonnet - back view.
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During the mid to late 1850's the bonnet shape became low and close to the head. The brims became shorter and often did not completely cover the hair in front. The inside of the front brim was often decorated as well as the outside of the bonnet. This bonnet is made from straw braid, lined with light blue silk and trimmed with orange flowers and antique ribbon. It was designed to go with the 1850's Fan Front Bodice Dress.
Period Fashion Plate illustrating bonnets of the 1850's.
1850s Straw Bonnet Front
1850's Straw Bonnet Side
1850s Straw Bonnet Back
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Despite the caution that you can't always trust the authenticity of costumes in movies, I have always had a thing for the green bonnet that Rhett gives to Scarlett early in the movie, shortly after she is widowed. It is a spoon bonnet - named such as the shape of the brim resembles the shape of a spoon. It can be worn with the Green and Purple Striped Dress.
Scarlett's Paris Hat - The Real Deal
My incarnation of this bonnet. OK, so the feather should be green and it is on the other side, and I skipped the red binding on the ties. But other than that, it is a pretty good copy!
Scarlett's Paris Hat - Front
Scarlett's Paris Hat - Back
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Not every lady in the 1860's was a slave to fashion, just as not every woman in our day is such. This is an example of a low bonnet from the 1860's, for those who did not desire the large spoon shape. These are sometimes reffered to as "low spoon". It is made from green irredescent taffeta and trimmed with rooster feathers and velvet flowers. It can be worn with the 1860's Green Plaid Day Dress.
Green Taffeta Bonnet - Front
Green Taffeta Bonnet - Side
Green Taffeta Bonnet - Side
Green Taffeta Bonnet - Back
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This is another example of the Civil War era spoon bonnet, made of brown irredescent taffeta and trimmed with an antique ostritch feather, antique millinery flowers, glass beads, and cotton net. It can be worn with the 1860's Plaid Silk Dress.
Civil War Spoon Bonnet Front
Civil War Spoon Bonnet Side
Civil War Spoon Bonnet Back
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If you noticed that this is the same pattern as Scarlett's Paris Hat, you are correct. Having made a pattern from scratch why only make one? This one I designed to wear with the 1860's Fitted Coat. It is made of blue velvet and blue irredescent taffeta, trimmed with an ostritch feather and gold trim.
Here is the original again for comparison.
Blue Velvet Spoon Bonnet
Blue Velvet Spoon Bonnet Front
Blue Velvet Spoon Bonnet Side
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The next two bonnets are handmade from straw braid. The braid can be bought in rolls and is then sewn together, row by row, to create the shape of the bonnet. This bonnet is lined and trimmed with creme silk, cotton net, silk ribbon, and a silk rose. Velvet flowers adorn the inside of the front brim.
Green Straw Spoon Bonnet Front
Green Straw Spoon Bonnet Side
Green Straw Spoon Bonnet Back
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This is another example of the "low spoon" bonnet. It is made from fancy straw braid sewn together in rows. It is lined with black silk and trimmed with antique millinery flowers and black lace.
Black Straw Bonnet - Side
Black Straw Bonnet - Front
Black Straw Bonnet - Back
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I purchased the black wool felt hat at a department store as it was a good size and shape for this period. I then decorated the hat with antique ostritch feathers, black silk ribbon, and an antique brooch. This hat is designed to be worn with the 1887 Purple Bustle Dress.
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This hat is an original! All I did was add the trim. It is trimmed with antique olive silk ribbon and antique velvet millinery flowers. It is designed to compliment the 1881 Navy Blue Wool Suit.
1880's Straw Hat - Front.
1880's Straw Hat - side.
1880's Straw Hat - back.
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Thomas Gainsborough was a famous 18th century painter. He painted many portraits of English ladies wearing fashionable hats with VERY wide brims. Over time this style of hat became associated with his name. There were a revival of this style in the 1890's and early 1900's, and this is an example of that style. The hat itself I purchased from a historical millinery site. I trimmed it with antique feathers, black cotton net, black silk ribbon, and a "paste" brooch. It is worn with the 1890's Skirt and Blouse.
1890's Gainsborough Hat - Front.
1890's Gainsborough Hat - Side.
1890's Gainsborough Hat - Back. The large round item is a hat pin.
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This is an example of what was commonly called a "boater" style hat. I purchased the straw hat plain and trimmed it with a handmade flower, black ribbon, and some antique feathers.
1890's Straw Hat Front
1890's Straw Hat - Side
1890's Straw Hat Back
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I purchased this hat as it had the correct shape for the period, and trimmed it with an antique feather. It would look great
with a brown
wool suit from the 1910's ... humm ....
1910's Brown Fet Hat Front
1910's Brown Fet Hat Back
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