Why the skirt first? It is easier to fit the bodice over the skirt and underpinnings, than guess and end up with the bodice being too tight!

I only have ten yards of this fabric, so I was being very conservative with the design as there is no way to buy more if I run out (it was an eBay find). I chose this skirt pattern as the apron and underskirt are combined, eliminating the need for a separate overskirt.

I am going with Skirt B as it uses slightly less fabric, and I like this design idea that is included in the notes:

This photo is actually from a separate underskirt pattern, TV 203. The same image is included with my pattern TV 208 so I suspect the cut of the two skirts is very similar, if not exactly the same.

I would love to do the pleated trim but I do not have enough ribbon. I spent a day doing math to check, measuring the hems on the pattern pieces and checking against how much ribbon I have in the stash. I have enough to do ruffled trim (1.5 times the length) but not pleated (3 times the length).

So first step is to cut out the skirt. I decided to only flat line the three front panels. The back is poofed, and I was afraid the extra weight of the interlining would make it less poufy as the taffeta fabric is quite stiff enough on its own. Since a lot of the trim will be mounted on the front panels, I felt they would do better being flat lined.

I cut all the pieces (except the pocket) out of the plaid silk and only the three front panels from some cotton muslin for the interlining. Then I pressed and joined the fabric to the interlining using a serger. This is not period correct but it is great way to finish seams on fabric that want to ravel like silk, when those seams will not show. Cut notches inward so that the serger does not cut them off!

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Once the pieces were flat lined, I sewed them together.

Then I put a quick machine sewn hem in, as it will be covered by the ruffle.

To make the trim more interesting, I used a ruffle of self fabric with ribbon trim mounted on the top and bottom of the ruffle. I bound the top as the wrong side could be visible once the ruffle is sewn on. I cut the ribbon in two pieces lengthwise to do this, and since the cut edge was very prone to fraying, finished the seams with the serger.

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Then I quarter marked the ruffle and ran two rows of machine gathering stitches a little ways down from the top. I quarter marked the skirt hem and pinned the ruffle on, leaving it a scant 1/4″ below the hem.

Next I assembled the three apron pieces and did the same set of steps there (hem by machine, measure, make a ruffle and attach.

The apron is pleated along the side seams as marked on the pattern and sewn to the front. I finished the side seams with the serger and machine basted the top.

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Time for the skirt back!

The skirt back is one large piece. I started by hemming the bottom by machine as I did the front piece. Next is to attach the skirt back to the skirt front. First, the pleats on the side backs, as indicated on the pattern, are pleated up and then the side seams are sewn.

Then I measured the hem and up the side seam as far I wanted the ruffle to extend. Visually, the ruffle needs to extend farther than the edge of the apron ruffle. They both will end right below the first pleat in the apron skirt.

I then made the ruffle exactly the same as the ruffle for the skirt front and apron. I sewed the gathering threads (see below) and quarter marked it. Next, I quarter marked the ruffle length on the skirt by measuring.

I then pinned the ruffle to the skirt at the quarter marks and drew up the gathering. I let the ruffle extend past the hem of the back by a couple inches. Once all was in place, I sewed it on.

Next I set on the waistband. The top of the back can be either pleated or gathered, I chose to gather it. The following photos show the method I use for nearly all gathering.

The seam allowance I am using for the waistband is 5/8 inch. As the seam should fall between the two rows of gathering threads, I sewed the first gathering thread at 1/2″.

The second gathering thread is sewn at 3/4″

Draw the gathering stitches at the same time, and the result is a very neat gather. The lower thread keeps the fabric gathers straight as they are sewn, and can be removed afterwards.

I set the waistband on the front, and then gathered the back to fit.

With the waistband on, the final step is to add a balayeuse. A balayeuse or “dust ruffle” is a removable, ruffled piece that attaches to the underside of a skirt train. It’s purpose is to both help the train hold its shape, and keep it off the floor and clean. The balayeuse can be removed an laundered. It can either be based on or attach with buttons or ties.

As this is a small train, I just made a ruffle of eyelet to lie under the ruffled hem of the train. I measured the length of the back skirt hem and gathered a piece of eyelet on the serger to match that length. I bound the top edge with pre-packaged bias tape, and tapered the ends of the ruffle so it will disappear under the hem at the sides.

The balayeuse is machine basted to the skirt, under the ruffle.

The final trim will be applied after the bodice is sewn, given how close it will be having enough ribbon trim. Here is the assembled skirt:

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Next: On to the bodice!

The first layer of the outfit is the chemise, followed by the drawers. Both of these I made as a set using the Laughing Moon Mercantile Pattern. Whether the drawers go under the chemise, under the corset, or over the corset and chemise is a matter of personal preference. There is evidence they were worn both ways. I prefer to put my drawers on over the corset. This is hard to do on a dress form so I have put the drawers under for this demonstration.

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Next is the corset. This is the “Dore” corset that came in the same pattern envelope from Laughing Moon Mercantile with the chemise and drawers. This is a great corset pattern! Mine is covered with pink silk.

On to the skirt support!