Read Part One Here

Construction – Bodice Gathers

As the lining was completed in the fitting stage, the next step is the bodice.  The front and backs are gathered along the bottom, neckline, and where they attach to the shoulder strap.  So the first thing I did was put in these gathering stitches.  As the seam allowance is 5/8″, I put one row of gathering stitches at 1/2″ and another at 3/4″.  Pulling both threads at the same time creates a nice even gather.  When the pieces are sewn together, the seam should be right in between these two lines of gathering stitches.  Here is one of the shoulder seams showing the gathers:

When sewn, the seam should be right in between the two rows of gathering stitches:

Then, the gathering stitches are removed:

Here is the shoulder seam opened out:

And here it is after pressing:

The bodice front and side seam must be sewn before the back gathering stitches can be done, so I did this seam first, then put the final gathering threads in:

Once the bodice was completely sewn together, I joined it to the lining around the neckline, right sides together, drawing up the neckline gathering stitches to fit.  I usually do these in stages to avoid having a million pins falling out.  So I did the back and shoulder straps first:

After sewing the seam on both sides, I gathered up the neckline and pinned it to the lining:

Making Necklines Behave – Understitching

This is a modern technique, but if you are machine sewing a gown it is worth knowing.  When you join the fabric to the lining in a period correct handsewn manner, the seam allowances are folded in and the two pieces are joined.  This prevents the neckline from pulling and showing the lining.  But for machine sewn necklines, this rolling to the outside is a problem.  To prevent it, understitch the neckline.  Basically you are going to press the neckline and then sew the lining and seam allowances together very close to the fold line.  This does not show on the outside but will keep the lining inside where it belongs.

The first step is to press the neckline seam open with seam allowances towards the lining:

Then sew a seam 1/16″ to 1/8″ from the join between the fabric and the lining:

 

 

 

 

Here is the completed seam:

Once the understitching is done, press the neckline in place.  I then matched the arm holes and sewed them together 1/2″ to keep them in place:

Construction – Waist

The bodice is gathered at the front and backs and not at the sides – this helps you not look as fat as the sides are smooth.  To join the fabric and lining at the waist seam, I matched up the seams and center fronts.  Then I drew up the gathers on the back / side first:

At this point I cut out the waistband.  I don’t usually use pattern pieces to do this, I measure the width and cut the waistband to the size I want it to be.  I have lost an inch in the waist (no wonder my stays are loose!) but I am going to make it the original size and just overlap more in the back, in case I gain this weight back in the future.  I cut the lining waistband out of the cotton organdy as the voile is a little too loosely woven and stretchy to make a sturdy waistband even in two layers.

The pattern calls for the center front of the lining to be gathered to fit the waistband, so I applied the waistband in two steps.  First I attached it on both sides to the back and sides, leaving the front unsewn between the gathering stitches:

I then pulled up the gathering stitches on the lining, matching the center front, and sewed this at 1/2″ just to hold it while I did the fabric side:

I then pulled the gathers in the front, matching center fronts, and pinned them in place.

After the gathers were pinned, I laid the fabric side of the waistband down on top of it, pinned it in place, and sewed the seam.  Here is the waistband attached, front and back, after pressing:

Construction – Sleeves

This pattern has a very nice simple two piece long tight sleeve.  Since this fabric is very loosely woven I did not make the sleeve too tight.  It has an upper and lower piece – the seams run along the inside and outside of your arm.  When putting the sleeve together, make sure you have a left and right!  Run a gathering stitch along the sleeve head at 1/2″ to facilitate easing.

I did a simple hem on the sleeve turning up the raw edges twice.  I sewed it in by machine as I intended to add a ruffle that will cover the seam.

To set in the sleeve, try the sleeve on to make sure you know which one goes on which side!  I then lay them on the ironing board on the correct side if the bodice is facing the ironing board.  I lost some of my photos so I don’t have one of the sleeve being pinned into the bodice.  But with this pattern there are notches and dots so it goes in easily.  Once the straight lower part is pinned in place, ease the upper sleeve into the armhole.  Here is the bodice with both sleeves in:

Construction – Skirt

This is the other casualty of my photo disaster – no skirt photos.  The skirt is very easy though.  You will have four panels with a seam running at the center front, center back, and each side.   I ran the double gather along each top piece – having to gather the entire thing or even half of it with one set of gathering threads is very unwieldy.  The gathering threads go at 1/2″ and 3/4″, so that there is one above and below the seam line.  These threads are removed after the seam is sewn.

Quarter the waistband to identify the center front, center back, and sides.  To do this, fold it is half and mark with a pin.  Then fold each half in half again and mark with a pin.  Pin the center front seam to the center front of the waistband, and repeat this process with the center back and sides.  Now you have the skirt pinned on in four places.

Draw up each set of gathering threads and distribute evenly by stroking with a pin.  Then pin the gathers in place.  Once all four sections are pinned, sew the seam. 

Because the fashion fabric is so loosely woven and stretches out of shape, I pinned the skirt to the cotton organdy waistband lining wrong sides together and sewed this seam.  Then I folded the fashion fabric seam allowance under and slip stitched the front of the waistband down.

The skirt has a very narrow hem as I did not have much fabric left!  By the time I straightened the grain I had just enough length in the front.  So I just turned it up 1/4″ and then 1/2″.  Because there will be a ruffle around the hem, I also sewed the in by machine.

Construction – Ruffled Trim

The trim is made from narrow 2″ strips of the same black voile as the gown.  I measured how much I needed to go around the hem and both sleeves, then doubled this measurement and added a little extra.  Then I sewed the strips together in one continuous piece, with a narrow 1/4″ seam.

To tame this fabric before hemming, I first did a zig zag stitch along both raw edges.  I then used the narrow hem foot to hem the strips on both sides:

I then used the ruffle or shirring foot to gather up the trim:

Final step!  I sewed the trim all around the skirt hem and on both sleeves.

Final Result!

I also made a quick black organdy petticoat so that the gown would appear consistently black, but I made it a tiny bit too short so you can see a white band around the bottom where the underpetticoat sticks out.  I have corrected this for the next wearing.  I wore it with black 18th century shoes and a lilac colored ribbon:

Click here to visit her shop.

Photos were taken at Woodville Plantation by Mark Fantozzi.