This dress had about 100 individual pieces when it was cut out. The bodice is one piece, even though it looks like a jacket over a vest over a blouse. It opens along the side front, under one of the lapels, where it closes with a row of bone buttons. The skirt has a lining, interlining, and the outer fabric. All of the pleats and gathers are sewn to the interlining so that they maintain their shape. The outer purple fabric is faille. The inset panel is silk brocade. At the top of the skirt, the silk brocade is shirred in multiple rows – this is above the vertical pleats in the skirt. The skirt and bodice are trimmed with beading. This is made in the second bustle period style, with the more pronounced shelf like bustle and narrower skirt.  The pattern is from Patterns of History, 1888 Reception Toilette which is hard to find now.  However it is available from Wisconsin Historical Society and from Ageless Patterns.